Week 4 in Granada: A Taste of Spain and a Glimpse of the world

     I can’t believe four weeks in Spain have flown by so quickly. As I approach the end of my study abroad experience, I find myself constantly pausing to reflect on everything I’ve learned, the friendships I’ve made, and most importantly, the immense gratitude I feel to be alive in a world so full of stunning sights, sounds, and people.

    This week especially, I’ve tried to be more present and soak it all in. On Wednesday, a few of my new friends and I wandered into the Albaicín district of Granada to celebrate a friend’s 22nd birthday. We found a cozy spot famous for its wine, escargot, and jamón ibérico. All of which lived up to the hype. As we hiked up, the sky transformed into a surreal wash of cotton-candy pink and blue for sunset. It felt like a birthday sign written in the clouds.

    On Thursday, we took a trip to Almería, a coastal city in southern Spain. There, we toured bomb shelters from the Spanish Civil War. Our guide explained that Almería was one of the last Republican strongholds, fighting for secularism and democracy even as the war drew to a close. Walking through those underground tunnels, I was struck by how cramped and chaotic life must have been. The artificial sirens echoing off the walls brought that fear to life in a way no textbook ever could. That night, we had the most extravagant dinner we have ever had in Spain, and probably the most extravagant one I’ve had in my entire life. There were so many plated courses, I couldn’t count them all if I tried. 

    The next day, we visited Convive Fundación Cepaim, an organization that supports immigrants as they try to rebuild their lives in Spain. We learned about their programs that help migrants find employment, integrate into society, and in some cases, return home. But returning home, especially for African immigrants, is complicated. Many leave with the financial and emotional backing of entire villages, and returning without success carries a painful stigma. Meeting two Malian men who had made the dangerous crossing by boat, yet were still unable to work because they lacked papers, made everything we’ve been studying feel urgent and real. It’s one thing to learn about migration and borders in a classroom, but it’s another to look someone in the eye and hear about the lives lost at sea, or on the shore.

    Back in Granada, the weekend brought a mix of writing and unwinding. We’ve been drafting our final essays, but still made time to visit Poë’s, my favorite tapas bar, before the owner left for his summer holiday. His food is full of flavor, and his tinto de verano never misses. We also spent an evening at the Bohemian Jazz Café, one of my favorite sit-down spots in the city. The mojitos are amazing, the live piano is always enchanting, and the walls are filled with tributes to Black American musicians like Billie Holiday, Aretha Franklin, and Ray Charles. It’s heartwarming to see that kind of homage to Black artistry, so far away from home. And of course, we ended the week with some authentic Spanish Churros.

    Granada has taught me so much, and I'll definitely leave a piece of my heart here. But we're not done yet, so I will stay present this week and soak it all in!

-Kaylin